I personally have a stage 5 Turbine and don't currently have an upgrade 220v outlet or upgrader breaker. I started to run into some issues with the turbine running very very very hot. After doing some basic trouble shooting (cleaning filters, adding more air flow and even switching the turbine to a direct outlet) I still had the issue. So I called the company and they told me to send it back and they would replace it. Thankfully. I thought my issues were solved.... Nope. After using the turbine for a full car the heat started to come back. So hot that I could not hold the 40ft turbine hose. So after going back to the source (Turbine filter cleaned, own outlet, more air flow and turbine on the ground) I have been able to really narrow the issue and now that I'm aware of it... it seems like common info. 

So far we have 7 shop lights, power drill, stage 5 turbine and exhaust fan all pulling power from one breaker. Multiple outlets however same amount of amps available. So we would spray the Raail AirWrap with ease. No issues that we saw. Wait a couple hours for the AirWrap to flash and then start to spray the 2k gloss. No issues for the first coat. I waited 10 min and then started with the second coat and thats when the issue occurred. The moment I turn the gun vertical I would get the crystallization effect. Only on the top surfaces. This is caused by too much heat to product flow. I'm sure we could always add more reducer to correct however I want to solve the overheating issue. I personally have seen 2 other shops with a stage 5 turbine have the same exact issue. When I first bought the turbine I decided to get the highest stage I could afford and thought "more is better"...nope. 

So here are a few solutions I would suggest.

1. Buy a stage 3 turbine. You will save money. ($330 vs $1000+) You can still spray 2k gloss and get it very smooth. 
2. If you want to keep your stage 5 turbine you can upgrade your breaker/power.
3. If you want to keep your stage 5 turbine but you done want to do the above you will need to allow the turbine to cool for 6+ hours. Even then its no guarantee it will not start to over heat again. 

Of course having a compressor is ideal however I am not ready for that job. Would love to hear more from someone who is in the electrical industry.  ​​

 
First wash the car with scent free dish soap. This needs to be done 24-48 hours prior to spraying the car. If your car is 2+ years old we suggest clay baring the paint. You can find clay bar in any auto shop or Walmart ($13-$20). Doing this will ensure the surface is smooth prior to the Raail AirWrap application. 
 
Ok now your car is free of any dirt, oils and wax. Should be 100% dry by now. This is very very important. Water likes to sit in cracks and crevices and will only cause issues down the road (pun intended) Now comes the prep. We suggest 3m Blue painters tape, Green solvent resistant paper and Tape-n-Drape. All of this is located at most home improvement stores. Some installers like to leave a gap on the panel they are spraying and others like to mask the entire car. For us personally we like to mask the entire car. Example: if the window trim is chrome and you can either tape the entire trim or leave a gap, exposing 30%-40% of the trim and just peel the AirWrap later. After years of spraying cars we have found not all head lights are the same. Some are high quality plastic and others… not so much. It’s best to just mask the entire headlight vs peeling later and possibly have the solvents effect the plastic. I have yet to see any issues with taillights by the way.
 
Now your vehicle is prepped. Next step is to clean off any oils from your hands and give your car a final wipe down. It’s best to do this with Prep All (which can also be found at most Auto Parts store) $8 and a lint free towel. Micro fiber towels are ok, they may leave micro fibers behind and cause “Fish Eyes”. 
 
Next, it’s time to start spraying. If you are using a turbine a 1.5 tip size works best. As for the gun setting turn it all the way down an turn up 8 tiny clicks and start with your first coat. This coat should be a light tack coat. Once complete, allow 8-10 minutes to dry and now you can start working on your next coat. Prior to that turn your gun up two more clicks. Continue this process till you reach 25-30 clicks on your gun. 3-4 light tack coats to start with. This allows you to build up enough product and ensure you don’t get any “fish-eyes”. Let’s say you do have this issue, applying 2-3 very light coats over will cover. Nothing too major.
 
A nice guide to follow
Gallon one: Light Tack coats
Gallon two: Medium coats
Gallon three: Medium coats
Gallon four: Wet coats
 
A few quick tips
-Prep is key
-Take your time
-Allow the paint to flash/dry between coats
-No need to “heat up” your Raail AirWrap
-Compressor: 15-20 PSI 1.5 tip size
 
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